Gucci Vault is shaping a world of rare fashion finds, presenting us with $18,500 USD EGONlab. denim jackets, re-made Tom Ford-era bags, a Palace collaboration, and now an exclusive capsule courtesy of the preppy label Rowing Blazers.
Jack Carlson has built a brand known for traditional collegiate undertones, tapping into the Oxbridge mentality of formal shirts worn with rugby tops, sophisticated trousers and Sperry shoes, all while injecting joy with a heavy use of color and motifs. The same goes for its Gucci Vault capsule, which sees multiple pieces sport a Dodo character, something that has been associated with Rowing Blazers since its inception in 2017. Likewise, it’s associated with Oxford and Alice in Wonderland, two worlds that have been sources of inspiration for the label.
Speaking on this in further detail, Carlson said: “The dodo is at once noble and tragic. I’ve been fascinated by them since I was very young.” With this in mind, it appears on rugby shirts and sports shorts embroidered in bullion wire goldwork, as well as on the tie, bowtie, and cap.
Upping the sophisticated and traditional elements is Rowing Blazer’s take on a tailcoat, opting for a black cotton base with silk panels and gold bee buttons, per Gucci’s iconography. Mismatched grosgrain lapel facings in red and sky blue complement the jacket’s matching trousers. “There is a rowing club in the Netherlands where all the members wear stripey blazers,” explains Carlson. He adds, “But the club president has a formal tailcoat instead, with mismatched lapel facings in the club’s colors, orange and green. I’ve wanted to make a tailcoat like this since I saw it. I’ve worked on this for some time, and the opportunity to work on a capsule for Gucci Vault provided the perfect opportunity to bring it to life.”
There is also a tuxedo version of Rowing Blazer’s signature “Fun Shirt,” now adding a wing collar and tuxedo bib to the panels of red, yellow, blue, and green stripes. Classic suit jackets in green with white piping or aubergine with red piping also get the gold button treatment, while a T-shirt and a harlequin sherpa jacket made from upcycled fabric round out the drop.
Rowing Blazers’ Gucci Vault capsule is available to buy online now.
In other news, Balenciaga has delivered its Spring 2024 show invite.
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